Dusk to Dawn

Ah, at last in UB (Ulan Bator). The journey here has been rocky and bumby but now we are enjoying the city. It’s quite big stuff compared to rest of Mongolia. Half of the ads are in English and it seems like a major place, and it should as one third of the Mongolians live here.

The first thing we had to do when we got here was to get Nipu’s breaks fixed. The guy did some other tinkering as well and now the rattling caused by the bad roads has also disappeared. The work cost about seven euros which isn’t bad compared to Finnish prices. With seven euros you probably can’t get the gas station repairman to speak with you let alone touch the car. On the way to the repairman Toni did the dirtiest move this far and made our friends, the cops, look like clowns. First cop showed Toni the “pull over” gesture but he just drove through. The cop blowed the whistle and walkie-talkied the next cops fifty meters ahead to stop him. They ran practically in the middle of the road to block us but Toni just passed them and left them sucking their sticks there. That’s the way to do it, saves us some time not having to hear those money begging talks. Actually, we haven’t seen so many of the police for a while until now.

The trip from Karakorum, the old capital, to here was quite easy since most of the 350 kilomertes was paved. During the night there the town’s dog gang had peed on every tire and the smell was the best. It seems like the tarmac business is booming here, it won’t be long before the teens can cruise with lowered cars here. On the way we found some dunes and camels in the middle of the green steppe.

It took a while to find somewhere to sleep since it seems to be the climax of the turist season. We saw some pale faces on the streets. Nevertheless we managed to get great place in the suburb. We sleep in a jurt on a rooftop. Good view over the city. Tomorrow we’ll see what’s UB about. We are going to spend at least a few days. The craziest thing is the traffic, this is maybe the wildest place ever. The people drive wherever they want and as a pedestrian you’ll maybe have a seventy per cent chance of surviving. No one makes way for you. Nipu is resting on the parking lot, but we won’t rest, hope we don’t get hit by a lada.

We survived Gobi Desert and made it to the green steppes of Central Mongolia. The road has remained the same if not gotten worse. The potholes are bigger and the stones sharper. The road is made of mud, water, sand, bumbs, gravel, branches, piles of rock and other basic stuff. Nipu is still kicking there but it still doesn’t run perfectly. It still twitches, the engine heats up, the power disappears from time to time. We diagnosed it as hot and horny. Or it might be sand in the carburator. The ignition should be ok, but you never know..

There are no cops in Mongolia. Along the road there’s nothing but dead camels. Not a bad thing, cops have rarely helped us. Toni had some trouble with them once again on the second night here when he hit the streets of Olgi with a vodka bottle. He was soon returned to the hotel with a cop Uaz. Nothing new for Toni.

From Altai we continued through cool city of Uliastai to Tosontsengel where a surprise was waiting for us. One of the biggest heavy bands in the country, Haranga, was touring and we were there just the right time. Before the gig a local security guy spotted us and dragged us to his booth. He opened a vodka bottle and offered a fair share for us. He told us many times that he was a communist and that we could eat and sleep at his house. We liked the idea so much that we picked up some more vodka from the store to keep the party going on. Then we went to see the show. The leatherpant-wearing long-haired monsters were having enough of a blast to make Toni go wild after a bottle of vodka. The security guy arranged us on the back stage where we interviewed the main man of the band for a while. The singer is an Elton Jonh look-alike. Ok guy, old but still going around. After that we went back to the security booth which was full of weasel after for some vodka. They were fighting a bit with each other and we were having a laugh at them. At some point they told us that we need to go now. In the middle of drinking. We weren’t too happy about that, but we were able to get half a bottle back from them. Toni shouted that they are fascists niet communists.

The next stop after the hard hard rock gig was Terhiin Tsagaan Nuur national park, in English The Great White Lake. The road was a nightmare, the worst so far, not much more than a camel track. The park and the surrounding area was great, though. Volcanic area thanks to the sleeping volcano in the park. We checked out the lake, caves and climbed to the crater. Relaxing days for Finnish.

Now we are in Tsetserleg, only 500 kilometres from UB. We even saw some tarmac before the City but it lasted for only ten minutes. Felt good, anyways. Nipu’s hot engine got a taste of that smooth black surface. The nights in Central Mongolia are cold as hell but the days are warm. We are quite high all the time, somewhere around 2000 meters. The average altitude of the country is about 1500 metres, pretty high up compared to Finnish hills.

Our location is Gobi Desert. The saying goes, don’t go to Gobi without help. We are putting our lifes on the line and drive here with Nipu anyway. The freezing in the night turn to sweating like hell during the day and snowstorms to sandstorms. Around us there’s only emptiness and flies. There has been some accidents, Nipu’s horn fell off on the bumpy road and the exhaust pipe got loosened for the same reason.

There’s also the Mongol Rally going on here. Few of the partisipants has already given up. Some of them told us horror stories about a pass filled with mud and snow. They had given up there, but we drove through with no problems.

We have been driving like maniacs during the days on these sad roads. The average speed must be something like fifteen kilometers per hour. Nipu celebrated the magical 300 000 kilometres and on this trip we have done 20 000 altogether. There’s still a long way to go before Ulan Bator but we are doing well enough. The days goes by cursing the roads and viewing scenery. Adventure goes on…

We are at last in the promised land of Mongolia. The trip here was colorful and eventful again. We left Barnaul in the morning. Also left behind were the most nosy hotel women during this trip. Nothing more about that.

We fixed Nipu a little in the morning, because it was running unevenly. We bought oil, a spare tire and a gas flamethrower. From supermarket we took couple of plastic bags of can food. Then filled the tanks and hit the road.

Altay area suprised us big time. Incredible landscape, good roads and friendly people. Few hundred kilometres from Barnaul the scenes change into hills, rivers and forests. Seems a bit like Caucasus. The weather isn’t too hot. In the daytime it was 18 degrees and about zero at night. There are lots of good camping places on the area practically everywhere. In the villages you’ll find all the services, and along the road there are stands selling vegetables, potatoes, mushrooms, moonshin, juice and berries. We camped by the river and grilled a bit on a fire.

In the morning we had to hurry to get to the Mongolian border since it was friday and the boarder would close for the weekend at five o’clock. There was some 300 kilometres to drive, so we had enough time. Nipu’s ignition coil started throwing sparks at some point again and the driving became bouncy so we had to fix it a bit. The coil was fixed with electric tape and by moving the distributor a bit the motor was running more smoothly. There seems to be something wrong with the ignition.

Before the border the scenes changed altogether. First there were some oasis-like villages and then sand desert surrounded by hills.

On the Russian border the guys knew how to spend some of our time as usual. Even though we were taking the cars out of the country it took two hours. The eye of Vasiliev (a.k.a. Ville) and his new wifebeeter t-shirt were respected on the border. After we got finally through we had to hurry for the Mongolian side, which was 28 kilometres away. We were among the last ones to arrive there and got through without major troubles. Had to throw few dollars here and there, even had to fill out forms to make sure we don’t have the swain flu. Vasiliev lied to not have diarrhea. After the border there were some guys trying to sell us insurances but we just drove past them. Some kids came to see the cars and stole my bubble gums. There were a bunch of Brits on the border, doing the Mongol Rally and we talked some shit with them for a while. I got a local hitcher on board, he came with us to the nearby village of Tsagannuur. It was getting dark and we were getting nowhere on these roads, so we camped by a lake. In the evening we were cooking noodles and got visitors, a couple from a nearby jurt came with tea and a bag of bread. We sat in the tent with them talking and enjoying the tea and they offered us to have tea at the jurt in the morning.

In the morning there was some audience as we woke up. The local kids were there to see what’s going on. They helped us to pack the tent and wash the dishes. After that we went for the tea and the host had just sliced one of his lambs and hanged it up on the walls. The head and feet were still in the corner. They had prepared liver and fat for us. We were a bit afraid of being offered testicle soup, but luckily there was none. The liver was surprisingly good, because none of us especially loves liver but got this one down easily. We gave the guy a small bottle of Finnish vodka and a postcard and headed off. We found the sand track to Olgii after getting lost once. It started snowing really bad. Yeah, in the middle of August and Nipu got stuck pretty fast. There was maybe ten centimeters of snow, which shouldn’t be normal in the summer. We had to tow the car with patrol, since the summer tires weren’t pushing us up the hill. And in the downhills it was pretty hard with the breaks. In the end we got through and even managed to find thirty kilometers of paved road. We got to the town of of Olgii, and will be heading off tomorrow.

Mongolia has so far offered really cool scenes and people that are interested in us and friendly. Good vibes. The roads are tracks that go here and there, and some of them are in a bad shape. You can’t know where the road is going. The navigation is challenging, since we don’t have a proper GPS. We try to manage with a mobile phone’s GPS and three euro compass. There will be challenges, im sure. There is a long way to go. The weather hasn’t changed a bit, we have to wear winter clothing here.

The answer to this week’s question: When you crush the apricot seed there is a nut inside, which hopefully isn’t poisonous because we’ve been eating them.

The futuristic city of Astana was left behind a few days ago and we headed off towards Altay area in Russia. Before that we pimped Ville totally and trow his junkie look to the garbage. Now he looks more like basketball player. The first driving day went smoothly, we only got fined, but by the cop camera. I’d like to see them sent it to Finland, they probably don’t even know which country we are from. We camped in the evening and grilled the worst flour sausages ever. We didn’t have to fight for the last one. Ville made a big mistake and ate one of them cold. He was lucky not to puke and shit himself right away.

In the morning we went on until the cheeseholed roads of Kazakstan demanded blood and Nipu had to pay. There was a pop in the front, it was the sound of the spring of the suspension breaking. We were just about in the middle of nowhere, there was 150 kilometers to the next city. Nipu was drivable, but due to the bumbs the ride was slow. After a few hours we had to visit the city, Ekibastus. It didn’t look too nice but we had no choice. We drove to the first car repair, they sniffed around Nipu and said that all the springs are broken. They seemed weasel-like, so we asked them to repair only the spring that made the noise. After some arguing they agreed and we left to find new spring from the local car part shop. We left Ville to keep an eye on Nipu at the garage. After finding a few springs with the shop owner we came back to find Ville in the back room drinking brandy and eating salami with five Russians. We joined them as they said that it’s not a good idea to drive on anymore today and that we could sleep at their place. It seemed like a good idea.

The springs didn’t fit in, of course, so we left for new ones. At this point the people were getting pretty drunk and Toni’s phone disappeared. When we made some noise about the phone it suddenly reappeared from somewhere. We started to suspect something weird going on. Anyway, we got new springs from the shop and they told us that these will fit. Ville started to be quite drunk and was fingering the owners cap and messing around. Out of nowhere the redneck hit Ville to the face and he dropped to the ground. That started a big buzz. People came to calm down the hillbilly because he was going crazy, god knows why. Then some of them told us that now would be a good time to check out the flat where we were supposed to sleep, just to calm things down. We went to the flat, where the local guy asked us 400 dollars for the night. Say what?! It was supposed to be free, but now we found out the prices are cheaper in Hilton. We said no thanks and drove back to the garage to get Nipu back on the road now and not tomorrow. Everything was fine again and the guys asked us to the backroom to drink some more. We spend some time there while waiting for the repairs to finish. We paid too much for the repair of one suspension and were getting ready to go when we saw that Patrol was missing the stereo and Nipu had lost some stuff also. Back to the garage where the guys didn’t know anything about that. When we started to talk about getting the cops one of them told us to wait for five minutes. The dick face came back with his car and handed us back the digital camera. We said that there are more things missing and he started digging the trunk for more. There was lots of things. And he was like nothing happened. The stereo wasn’t there so we had to get the cops. That did the trick, the guy was shitting himself enough to give us his own stereo, mobile phone and thirty euros. After that we hit the road and left the hick town as fast as possible.

Some colorful day that was. Some garage party. First time the repairmen tried to steal from us. At least Ville recommends Ekibastus for everyone. His left eye is painted with panda decoration. In the morning we continued to the border, which was painless and fast, except that Nipu lost a tire again. After the border we found a bunch of brits who were going to Mongol rally. They were so wasted I don’t know how far they’ll get. We camped and slept well. In the morning we found maybe the best repairman so far. First thing his wife asked us for breakfast, we filled our stomachs with eggs and cookies. After that the woman from next door brought us a huge bag of vegetables from her garden and even some home made liquor. We thanked and gave her a mini bottle of Finlandia vodka. The repairman replaced all the springs and Nipu is riding high now. He presented Ville with a baseball bat to not have any troubles in the future. We even got food on the way. Best russian experience till this far.

Now we are at Barnaul, stocking food, charging ourselfs and fixing equipment to be ready for Mongolia. We should be there before Saturday, because the border will close for the weekend.

We have the honor of carrying Mongolian visas in our passports. It was the easiest visa so far, even if the earlier ones weren’t too bad either. We left Almaty cheerfully for Astana. There was 1200 kilometres to go so we stopped halfway and found quite a nice spot by lake Balkash. Somehow we managed to camp next to some disco hell where they played Lady Gaga all night long.

In the morning we moved along. When you drive long time you’ll start noticing weird details. Here’s the list of this trip: Every second truck driver is called Rostoi, one guy was driving without windshield, that truck driver will have a mouth full of bugs. We saw four tanks, probably going to some border. Most of the people drive jeeps here, half of them Lexus. We saw some Moskovich and Ladas of course.

The temperature has dropped from the Dushanbe’s sauna of 50c to a nice 30c in Astana. Now it is possible to go around before ten in the evening. We are living in the train station here with all the services on the doorstep. There’s sauna, mobile phone shop, supermarket and busy people. This is probably the cheapest place to sleep in Astana. Yesterday a train driver pimp tried to hook us up with some local chicks. What more can you ask? We also met  the biggest alcoholic and most hardcore junkie while spending our time here. Both ones were huge dickheads!

Astana should be quite a crazy capital. They’ve put a lot of money here and it shows. Eight per cent of national budget goes to building the city. It feel like Dubai or something. It doesn’t seem like regular Kazakstan at all, it’s more like local Las Vegas, big city built in the middle of nowhere and all the buildings huge and strange.

Now they are planning to build a dome with a small city inside. There will be beach, golf course, canals, shopping malls and houses for 30000 people etc. Moving around would be managed by gondolas and it should stay in summer temperatures during the winter. Pretty high tech. The project seems to be a bit frozen now because of the crisis, it should have been ready in 2008 but it still isn’t. This place is a playground for the president, they don’t have such plans even in Arabia. It seems like utopia comparing to what we’ve seen so far, but why not… We are in the capital of fantasy.

Here’s a hard question of the week: What is there to eat in an apricot seed?

After a moment of hanging around in Osh we continued on to Bishkek. It was a fast drive until Toni disappeared for a while. After a few hours and a fine he found us again and we were able to go on. The Kirgisian law made an effort in slowing us down, we got to argue a few times more about speeding limits. This time we surprisingly won all the discussions and could continue without paying. In the evening we even found good camping spot at the river so it all looked good.

In the morning patrol was making infernal noise, but luckily we found out that the problem was a useless part so we ripped it off and threw on the back seat. After that Nipu would run unevenly from time to time and in a long uphill the engine just died. Smart guys as we are, we thought that it was the ignition coil that broke. We started dragging the car to Bishkek which was still 200 painful kilometres away. We got there by dusk and dropped off Genia the translator at a hostel and said goodbyes. He will have a summer holiday and heads off to India. From now on we are without help in Russian. Thanks to him for the help!

We left Nipu to rest for the night and found a really good place in the Bishkek ghetto. Super friendly grandmom gave us a room almost for free. I even got my clothes washed for the first time in a few months. In the morning we went to hunt for the ignition coil in the autobazar. Unbelievable place, you put a thousand monkeys and one hundred containers of bananas in an area and see what happens. We couldn’t find anything useful except some information. Eventually some guy checked out the ignition coil and told us it is working. He said that the problem might be with the distributor, which we happen to have with us, thanks to the Nissan Fan Club Finland. So we wasted the whole day looking for a part to replace a perfectly ok part. We swiched the part and Nipu was working perfectly.

That meant that we could drive to the border. On the borders you’ll usually see all the weirdos and the smartest soldiers. On this time there were a couple of glue sniffing kids and a truck driver scraching his dick. The Kirgisian side was so stuck that we had the cars lining up for five hours. Some brainiacs came to tell us how to drive and the dick scratcher was also massaging his bags next to the window. Filthy guy. The Kazakstan side was done in an hour. The border guys wanted booze or cigarettes but only got a few words of Finnish. We were meant to get to Almaty but after spending six hours on the border we thought it’s better if we put up camp in some bush.

On the way to the bush there was a big militia stop on the highway with the soldiers and some pigs. We got through with Ville but Toni was stopped. He talked for some time and gave them five rubles. When they let him go he realized that his phone was missing. The pigs had taken it while searching the car. There is no trusting to these guys. First they wouldn’t admit taking the phone, and suddenly one of them “found” it on the ground. Without sim-card. After a while the guy admitted stealing it. Toni threatened to take the issue higher up and demanded the names of the cops. After some discussion the chief of the police decided to pay Toni for silence and gave him about twenty euros. At last the money is coming our way! The sim-card, however was never recovered. The cop is your friend here!

Now we are in Almaty and applied for Mongolian visas. You’ll get them for 58 dollars in one day. The consul didn’t encourage up much. He said they are in poor shape. That was nice to hear. From here we’ll continue to Astana, the capital of Kazakstan. That means scouting through northeastern Kazakstan. I hope that the roads are fine, Nipu is, at least.

Awesome Tajikistan is behind us and we arrived in Kirgistan yesterday evening, through Batken to Osh. There should be some crazy horse festival here and we will check it out. After that we’ll waste no time but head towards Kazakstan. We should be there waiting for the Mongolian visa on Monday morning. We have to hurry and do some serious driving.

The theme of the last days in Tajikistan was sweat and diarrhea. We’ve  enjoyed so much pooping this month that it’s getting boring. I guess the hygiene isn’t what we soft Finns have gotten used to. The bacteria was probably so pumped up by the heat that once you got sick there was no way coming back. But I guess it is getting better now.

From Dushanbe we rolled on the M34 highway in north Tajikistan. The road’s great but under some heavy construction, so it is closed for the daytime and stuck with cars in the evenings. One pass took us six hours to get over. We stopped before Khojand in Istaravshan, where we found an ok place to crash and in the morning we hit the bazar. The grapes and pears were in season, you could get them with half a euro per kilo.

In the evening we were in the crazy city of Khojand. It is 2500 years old with some cool mosques and a good bazar. You could really smell the sands of the silk road there. We slept upstairs of the bazar. The alarm clock goes off at six when the people start yelling candy, juice, tomatoes, make way and whatever. The city has good vibes and Uzbek color, of course. The heat was about to kill us at some point so we dipped into the local river which probably isn’t the cleanest around, but it helped to cool us down.

Before the Kirgis border we needed to find the border city of Isfara where we found the wrong border crossing. Couple of monkeys wearing camo pants and black shirts jumped from the bushes and tried to stop us but we drove through. They chased us with their Mercedes and brought us back to their post. We found out that we couldn’t cross the border there so we camped behind the bouncers’ post. In the morning we found the right crossing and cracked some jokes with the military for half an hour. After that we were in Kirgisia. There are some difficulties when crossing southwestern Kirgistan. Uzbekistan has at least two “islands” in the middle of Kirgistan. You need Uzbek visa to get through them and all the public transportation goes on these roads. With your own car or a taxi you can get around but it takes a while. It took us about eight hours, a few stops included. But we found our way back to the familiar Osh. The adventure continues, stay tuned!

We were hanging out in the Fan Mountains. We were all sick on the first day so the hiking plans were ruined. Diarrea was the only souvenir we took back with us. I have a feeling that Toni infected me, he’s probably been licking my toothbrush or coughing on my face when I’ve been asleep. They have adviced people to not drink any tap water in the whole country because an epidemic of stomach disease. Now we are also part of this big community of the sick.

The road to the mountains was quite bad and we drove through a half-finished tunnel for fifteen minutes. The chinese seem to have a monopoly in the road building, since there are thousands of them by the road, like ants building the road. I hope that the road will last more than six months. There is a rumor that China sends it’s convicts here to build the roads for free. Who knows.

After getting back to the heat of Dushanbe we needed to get our visas from the Kirgisian embassy. They had promised us they’ll be ready on Friday morning, but the consul fucked us over and wasn’t in there. On monday he was still saying that come between nine and twelve and you’ll be on your way to Kirgistan. Because of this prick we’ll have to stay in Dushanbe for the weekend, losing money and messing the schedule. I sure hope that the white-collar clown is there on Monday or we’ll be fucked up twise. Assholes like that really brighten up your day.

Something good as well. We got ten days extention to our car papers, which means that we have to be out of the country on 31st day. This didn’t go as smoothly as you’d expect, either. We needed to bribe some big guys with money and coffee. The guys asked for a hundred euros at first, which didn’t seem too good, so we sent Genia there with 25 euros. He told us they had a long and intense conversation, but he managed to get the papers with him. The guy had said that we’ll need to bring the rest of the money on Monday. Sure. We’ll roll on Monday and leave the big guy licking his toes.

Dushanbe is pretty familiar to us by now after hanging around here for a few days. Going about during the day is pain because of the temperature and in the night time the 28 celcius feels cool. The city is built around one big street, Rudaki, where you can get all the services you need. On Pamirs we didn’t see any cops but here they are everywhere. There must be something like one cop per ten citizens and this means a lot of cop stops. It’s been the same here as before, but we haven’t given any cash to them. On the big roads there are plenty of stops where you need to register yourself. The locals go through fast, a couple of somanis exchange owner during a handshake, quite systematic corruption. We’ve found out a new way to get through the stops, we just wave to the cops when they try to stop us or just pretend not to see them and drive on. They are so lazy they will just stand there wondering what happened. They might blow their whistles, but don’t do anything more. This tactic works real well.

The food in Tadjikistan has been better than in Kirgistan if you ask me. We’ve been eating mostly Plov (rice with vegetables and mutton), Beefstik (mashed potatoes, pasta, steak and fried egg), Jak meat with potatoes, Jak milk tea (which should ease the mountain disease), Kampot (really good fruit juice) and basic kebab, which costs about 80 cents. We’ve been eating quite much in the cafeterias where you can get almost anything with good price.

There is maybe the most polite way to greet here, you put your hand on your heart and say salem aleikum. We are getting used to that by now.

1 euro = 44 ruble Russia

Cheapest 95 Octane: 15 ruble
Cheapest Diesel: 11 ruble
Most expensive 95 Octane: 24 ruble
Most expensive Diesel: 21 ruble
Box of cigarettes: 6 ruble
Cheapest beer in a bar: 50 ruble(St. Petersburg)
Cheapest beer in store: 2,5 liter 10% 82 ruble (Sochi)
Stop by Militia in a day: 6 times (Caucasus)
Stop by Militia together: 27 times
Longest drive: Moscow –Rostov-On-Don 1400km
Longest driving duration: Moscow- some village 14 h
Nipu’s breakdowns: 4 times
Nipu’s fixing money: 22 200 ruble
Most expensive place to where we stayed: Uncle Pasha’s cottage 1000 ruble/ per person
Cheapest night: Gelenzik 250 ruble/per person
Car/tent nights: 5 times
Bribe meter: 17 300 ruble
Highest point: Elbrus 4000m

1 euro = 204 tenge Kazakhstan

Cheapest 96 Octane gasoline : 70 tenge
Cheapest Diesel: 45 tenge
Most expensive 96 Octane: 92 tenge
Most expensive Diesel: 60 tenge
Box of cigarettes: 50 tenge
Beer in the bar: 150 tenge (Almaty)
Vodka in store: 0,5 l with a cup and lighter, 200 tenge
Handshakes: 184 times
Stop by police (together): 9 times
Longest drive: Aktau – Aral 2000 km, 6 days
Average speen in North Kazaksthtan: 20 km/h 300 km per day in 10 hours
Nipu’s breakdowns: 2 times
Nipus’s fixing money: 11 000 tenge
Car/tent nights: 13 times
Bribe meter: 0 tenge
Highest point: 2100 m, 20 km from Uzbekistan border
Camels sawn: 121 times
Tyres broke down: 2
Sand in the car: 2 kg

1 Euro = 60 Som Kyrgyztan

Cheapest 95 Octane gasoline : 23 Som
Cheapest Diesel: 21 Som
Box of cigarettes: 10 Som
Beer in the bar: 50 Som, Osh
Vodka in store: 0,5 l with a cup, 75 Som
Food in restaurant (Laghman): 35 Som
Handshakes: 243 times
Stop by police (together): 5 times
Longest drive: Bishkek to Issyk-Kul, 6 hours
Days been on the road: 4 in total
Nipu’s breakdowns: 1 time
Patrol’s breakdowns: 2 times
Car/tent nights: 15 times
Bribe meter: 500 tenge (Kazak money)
Highest point: 3750m, One peak next to Altan Arashyn
Tires broke down: 2 (one in both cars)
Oil usage in total: 7 liters
Sheep’s eaten: 2